Leaving Lesotho had its share of challenges. My cell phone had been returned to HL and I was rather
dependent on others , busy with Easter and may other things, for communication. The last Saturday special "Canadian" meal was great and the kids loved the pasta sauce and chocolate cake with ice cream. Sunday I tried several times to confirm my flight to no avail. It was cold and rainy in the afternoon when I left, lots of hugs and well wishes and a few tears (on my part). The rondavel was clean and the reports finished. Alas, there was no plane, the flight having been cancelled (it was a holiday). Yet there was a plane earlier I could have been put on - if only someone had answered the telephone at the airport !
After a hectic half hour trying to assess options such as hiring a cab to get to Joburg for the overnight London flight, it was decided I would stay over at the orphanage and try the next day when there should be 4 flighs and another chance to drive if thwarted. It was unsettling not knowing if the next day flights to England and Ottawa had seats. I got a seat on the second flight at noon, and when boarded and taxied out there were still 20 people in the lounge who were to have left at 10:30, but no plane had come for them. Sorry though I was for them, I was so glad I had been put on the second flight. The rest of the trip has been great and I am at Heathrow acclimatizing to the "first" world with a cafe latte. I still see the view of the children playing from the rondavel window . I have many thoughts, even trying to imagine them here or out of that somewhat sheltered world and in ours. I really miss them already. So, the trip is over and I will be back to my world tonight. Thank you all for your interest and I will try to post a few last photos later this week. Note to self- never book a flight from Maseru on Easter weekend !
Saturday, April 5, 2008
Saturday, March 22, 2008
Leaving The Children
It has been a very emotional and mixed week for me here. There is a slow detachment process every volunteer experiences and I am spending more time thinking about home, even the April schedule at Valley Vet. I have finished a few last minute projects with Sr. Victoria including wrapping up all the vet matters and treating cows, chickens and dogs. I have written reports and recommendations ! The last preschool has passed and I survived ! On Tuesday night I was given a beautiful send off, as many of the orphans left Wednesday and Thurday to spend Easter with relatives. They sang and danced for me for over an hour, with the songs bestowing blessings and good wishes for happiness in Sesotho. There were several poems, and after I am home, I will try to place a few passages on the last "safe home" blog entry. I cannot describe the music and harmony created by the children or their dance talent. Once again, I sat transfixed and couldn't believe the privilege of their love and attention. I have presented each with a photo, the dearest thing to them, and also tonight will cook a Canadian meal for them. Michelle, the other HL volunteer who is visiting and will send me off tomorrow, will help me create pasta and bread, chocolate cake and ice cream, for 40. Tomorrow I will spend time coloring with the little ones as the adults and teens will be at church, as well as handwashing sheets and tidying the rondavel. It has been a very comfortable home.
The emotions come and go. There are favorite beloved children I try not to overtly show more affection for that, indeed, I wish I could bring home. I steal a chance to hug them but do not obsess. I hate the thought of leaving them and will for a long time think of them and what they are doing every moment of the day.It might be more accurate to say, I hate the thought of another person leaving them. Sr. Victoria is a friend and a very special person who enriched my experience here immensely, we laughed continuously. I am now completely comfortable with the transport and market journey once a week and people recognize me. Think I could work here a year there is so much to be done at the orphange, I have really just started to help significantly. Thankfully this week we have secured two Basotho volunteers who will share the computer and homework tutoring, so I know all will be good in the near future. My overwhelming impression is that the kids are amazing in more ways than I can say, including being generous, happy, playful, athletic, musical, surprisingly secure at the Centre and a pleasure to know. I told them, in a 5 minute translated farewell, that I feel their primary responsibililty is to stay healthy and wished them all happiness and faithfulness with one spouse, and the good health to raise their own children.I tried to say that good health is our greatest possession, and hope a few remember that advice and protect it.
So now, it is off to prepare the food and for my 2 day journey. But I get one more pass through the amazing African market first.
See you all in Canada
The emotions come and go. There are favorite beloved children I try not to overtly show more affection for that, indeed, I wish I could bring home. I steal a chance to hug them but do not obsess. I hate the thought of leaving them and will for a long time think of them and what they are doing every moment of the day.It might be more accurate to say, I hate the thought of another person leaving them. Sr. Victoria is a friend and a very special person who enriched my experience here immensely, we laughed continuously. I am now completely comfortable with the transport and market journey once a week and people recognize me. Think I could work here a year there is so much to be done at the orphange, I have really just started to help significantly. Thankfully this week we have secured two Basotho volunteers who will share the computer and homework tutoring, so I know all will be good in the near future. My overwhelming impression is that the kids are amazing in more ways than I can say, including being generous, happy, playful, athletic, musical, surprisingly secure at the Centre and a pleasure to know. I told them, in a 5 minute translated farewell, that I feel their primary responsibililty is to stay healthy and wished them all happiness and faithfulness with one spouse, and the good health to raise their own children.I tried to say that good health is our greatest possession, and hope a few remember that advice and protect it.
So now, it is off to prepare the food and for my 2 day journey. But I get one more pass through the amazing African market first.
See you all in Canada
Wednesday, March 19, 2008
Amazing Experiences.....
Global Fund Conference
Sister Victoria and I attended an all day conference at the premier hotel in Maseru, the Lesotho Sun. I was asked if I would like to take the place of Sr. Margaret, who has been to this function many times. The Global Fund administers huge sums of money for the developing world, much of it donated by foreign governments. The process includes specific proposal and accountability methods. Round 5 and 6 proposals included large HIV/AIDS initiatives such as testing and acquisition of drugs, but also
many small ones. These included drama presentations and films aimed at youth, training of pastors and traditional healers and much more. Renovations of homes led by children in Thaba Tseka and community support for Orphans and Vulnerable (OVC) Children were also funded. The 16 groups and individuals that had received funding had to present their projects and results. The Global Fund also did a summary of funds dispersed. It was an incredibly interesting day. The Ministry of Health, Education and the National AIDS Commission all presented large projects. Round 7 of funding is underway and the call for Round 8 will go out soon. This was all conducted in English and the people I met/saw as well as the facility and meals were
really fantastic. What an unexpected opportunity to see how development works at a completely different level.
Field Day for 75 Preschoolers
Not for the faint of heart….I helped take 75 children under five years to a field day on
Friday. There were 5 adults- don’t forget I can’t talk to the kids or really control them
And don’t know most of their names. Also, I can’t really communicate to any of the
adults very well either. A huge bus arrived and chaos ruled as they crowd jammed the
doors. From there on it was pretty much hilarious as we unloaded them at a large
field with no toilets. We cared for them, and fed them til 3 o’clock, including digging
latrines and feeding them chicken and bread. A few of the kids ran in races and relays
but generally they just played and we tried to keep and eye on them . Many had toilet
accidents and several spent the day with no pants. The other schools had colors and
costumes and there was great competitive spirit and cheering. Beautiful mountains in
the background and the Basotho dress of the teachers and the fact that it was all so
crazy made it another “ can’t believe I am here” experience. All heads were accounted
for on the bus before we left, but that was the only vestige of Canadian propriety I
experienced !
A Wedding
I was invited to a wedding by the Sisters Sunday. They know the family and assisted
in the decorating, a sideline business for Sr. Exinia ( as well as catering and sewing).
The tent was hugs and there were 200 guests. The ceremony included a full mass and
Church service and a large hot buffet was served. They welcomed me and did part of
the ceremony in English because I was there. The women looked stunning in African
dress that I only wish I could describe . It was a beautiful, though long, day and I felt
perhaps I should have stayed with the kids as this was my last full weekend. But it
was a privilege to be invited to attend and a nice look at how the upper echelons here
celebrate and their wedding traditions.
Sister Victoria and I attended an all day conference at the premier hotel in Maseru, the Lesotho Sun. I was asked if I would like to take the place of Sr. Margaret, who has been to this function many times. The Global Fund administers huge sums of money for the developing world, much of it donated by foreign governments. The process includes specific proposal and accountability methods. Round 5 and 6 proposals included large HIV/AIDS initiatives such as testing and acquisition of drugs, but also
many small ones. These included drama presentations and films aimed at youth, training of pastors and traditional healers and much more. Renovations of homes led by children in Thaba Tseka and community support for Orphans and Vulnerable (OVC) Children were also funded. The 16 groups and individuals that had received funding had to present their projects and results. The Global Fund also did a summary of funds dispersed. It was an incredibly interesting day. The Ministry of Health, Education and the National AIDS Commission all presented large projects. Round 7 of funding is underway and the call for Round 8 will go out soon. This was all conducted in English and the people I met/saw as well as the facility and meals were
really fantastic. What an unexpected opportunity to see how development works at a completely different level.
Field Day for 75 Preschoolers
Not for the faint of heart….I helped take 75 children under five years to a field day on
Friday. There were 5 adults- don’t forget I can’t talk to the kids or really control them
And don’t know most of their names. Also, I can’t really communicate to any of the
adults very well either. A huge bus arrived and chaos ruled as they crowd jammed the
doors. From there on it was pretty much hilarious as we unloaded them at a large
field with no toilets. We cared for them, and fed them til 3 o’clock, including digging
latrines and feeding them chicken and bread. A few of the kids ran in races and relays
but generally they just played and we tried to keep and eye on them . Many had toilet
accidents and several spent the day with no pants. The other schools had colors and
costumes and there was great competitive spirit and cheering. Beautiful mountains in
the background and the Basotho dress of the teachers and the fact that it was all so
crazy made it another “ can’t believe I am here” experience. All heads were accounted
for on the bus before we left, but that was the only vestige of Canadian propriety I
experienced !
A Wedding
I was invited to a wedding by the Sisters Sunday. They know the family and assisted
in the decorating, a sideline business for Sr. Exinia ( as well as catering and sewing).
The tent was hugs and there were 200 guests. The ceremony included a full mass and
Church service and a large hot buffet was served. They welcomed me and did part of
the ceremony in English because I was there. The women looked stunning in African
dress that I only wish I could describe . It was a beautiful, though long, day and I felt
perhaps I should have stayed with the kids as this was my last full weekend. But it
was a privilege to be invited to attend and a nice look at how the upper echelons here
celebrate and their wedding traditions.
Saturday, March 15, 2008
Wednesday, March 12, 2008
A Few Stories.......
Special Moments with Dr Seuss
I had one of those special moments the other night reading the Cat in the Hat. It wasn’t because the kids understood well or it was the hoped for bedtime story hour scenario. I have discovered the overflowing library is not used. The books are just not appropriate and the kids English not good enough ! However, picture me surrounded by ten heads as I sat on a chair reading Dr Seuss. The rhythm was fun and kids thought it sounded like singing and loved it. Near the end, I realized a couple of the teens had joined in and were following the story seriously. They asked questions about Thing One and Thing Two and the resulting mess in the house and the return of the mother as if it were non fiction. I answered them just as seriously. We all decided it would be best not to tell Mother what had happened that day in the house. It was as close to studying English as I have gotten, and I appreciated their time and interest. How wonderful to have a moment where I could see the absolute culture gap created by such different experiences and realities in growing up ! These kids had never seen a Dr Seuss book and their reaction was unedited and sincere.
Public Transport
There is a saying “Africa walks” but I believe it is more apt to say “Africa takes Public” Taxis and van ply the streets cruising for fares and have a man whose job it is to entice people into their vehicles. I always have to steel myself to go on public, it’s so unpredictable and wild. After the incident of the three youths high on something yelling/screeching for an entire trip I have been reluctant to go alone. However, today I had to go to Hlotse and meet the South Africa troupe and left early from the orphanage as I know the vans and buses take time to fill (sometimes an hour) before they will leave on a longer trip The bus rank is in the market, and the markets are amazing. Crowded with stalls of sticks, plastic and tin, there are people everywhere, corn and meat cooking on open fires, hawkers plying the bus windows and exotic sights. Herd boys with blankets and sticks, mothers with babies on their backs and ancient grandmothers selling peaches and apples. I got in a Sprinter, the upscale van with the higher roof. This is just an excuse to pack in more people standing. We sat an hour in stifling heat with men trying to sell drinks and chips and reading glasses thru the windows. When we departed a lady with a large derriere balance it on my shoulder. Her strong perfume made my nose twitch and gave me a headache, but I was aware there could have been worse consequences to have a posterior on my shoulder for 2 hrs. I shared my food with my teenage seat mate. I was thrown out at a transfer stop and shoved in a small VW van already overcrowded, seated practically on a mans lap, and my suitcase taken and put in the back. However, I got to the office just fine and all in all felt more at home and less stressed for the journey than I had anticipated. One gets used to anything !
Grandmothers:
Many in Canada are aware of the plight of the grandmothers of Africa. Many groups are working to help them. It is totally different to hear the details of their stories here and meet them. Me Mapoloko of Help Lesotho is starting a grandmother initiative. Needy grandmothers are being identified by the chiefs of the villages and enrolled in our program. They will come to a meeting once a month for a good meal and support, and take food or vouchers home. Many have lost all their own children and are caring for multiple orphans, some of whom are HIV positive. Food is the main issue, but as well there is no money for tuition or uniforms, so many of the orphans do not go to school. One family went without food for 5 days except what they could beg from neighbours. The photo is of one of these grandmothers and there are many more to share when I get home. They have a dignity in hardship that is hard to describe. We will continue to collect glasses for them at VVC throughout the year to send over with volunteers.
A Weekend in South Africa.
I crossed the border to South Africa with four friends last weekend for a mini holiday. We stayed at a fantastic lodge run by English ex-Pats. They purchased the little lodge, im the middle of a 3,000acre farm, six years ago. It was a combination of English Country garden and funk. The roses and stone cottages were set beside a thatched pig house and a mushroom shaped thatched sauna.There were hammocks, a large wooden chess set on the lawn and meals cooked by a Thai chef....incredible. The first night I was overwhelmed by sensory delights, the quiet and the many feasts for my senses....picture swimming under the African stars and hearing a jackal. The Saturday was an outride at the nearby polo farm, then we stayed to watch a game of polo. The next day we had a ride around a 6000 acre game farm in the back of a 4X4 that is hard to describe. We saw wild scenery from another world while spotting wildebeast, antelope , zebra and trucking thru runoff ditches. Also looked for agate and had a history lesson from our Afrikaaner game warden. The Sat night there was a party at our lodge and the cast of characters could have been from a novel, including the polo pro from Zimbabwe. Complete with 70s music and tye dye, it was a journey back to some other time. The trip there was interesting too as South Africa is so visually different than Lesotho. Quite a 48 hours. Now back to concentrate on the children for 2 weeks.Lots of pictures of all of this for those interested !
I had one of those special moments the other night reading the Cat in the Hat. It wasn’t because the kids understood well or it was the hoped for bedtime story hour scenario. I have discovered the overflowing library is not used. The books are just not appropriate and the kids English not good enough ! However, picture me surrounded by ten heads as I sat on a chair reading Dr Seuss. The rhythm was fun and kids thought it sounded like singing and loved it. Near the end, I realized a couple of the teens had joined in and were following the story seriously. They asked questions about Thing One and Thing Two and the resulting mess in the house and the return of the mother as if it were non fiction. I answered them just as seriously. We all decided it would be best not to tell Mother what had happened that day in the house. It was as close to studying English as I have gotten, and I appreciated their time and interest. How wonderful to have a moment where I could see the absolute culture gap created by such different experiences and realities in growing up ! These kids had never seen a Dr Seuss book and their reaction was unedited and sincere.
Public Transport
There is a saying “Africa walks” but I believe it is more apt to say “Africa takes Public” Taxis and van ply the streets cruising for fares and have a man whose job it is to entice people into their vehicles. I always have to steel myself to go on public, it’s so unpredictable and wild. After the incident of the three youths high on something yelling/screeching for an entire trip I have been reluctant to go alone. However, today I had to go to Hlotse and meet the South Africa troupe and left early from the orphanage as I know the vans and buses take time to fill (sometimes an hour) before they will leave on a longer trip The bus rank is in the market, and the markets are amazing. Crowded with stalls of sticks, plastic and tin, there are people everywhere, corn and meat cooking on open fires, hawkers plying the bus windows and exotic sights. Herd boys with blankets and sticks, mothers with babies on their backs and ancient grandmothers selling peaches and apples. I got in a Sprinter, the upscale van with the higher roof. This is just an excuse to pack in more people standing. We sat an hour in stifling heat with men trying to sell drinks and chips and reading glasses thru the windows. When we departed a lady with a large derriere balance it on my shoulder. Her strong perfume made my nose twitch and gave me a headache, but I was aware there could have been worse consequences to have a posterior on my shoulder for 2 hrs. I shared my food with my teenage seat mate. I was thrown out at a transfer stop and shoved in a small VW van already overcrowded, seated practically on a mans lap, and my suitcase taken and put in the back. However, I got to the office just fine and all in all felt more at home and less stressed for the journey than I had anticipated. One gets used to anything !
Grandmothers:
Many in Canada are aware of the plight of the grandmothers of Africa. Many groups are working to help them. It is totally different to hear the details of their stories here and meet them. Me Mapoloko of Help Lesotho is starting a grandmother initiative. Needy grandmothers are being identified by the chiefs of the villages and enrolled in our program. They will come to a meeting once a month for a good meal and support, and take food or vouchers home. Many have lost all their own children and are caring for multiple orphans, some of whom are HIV positive. Food is the main issue, but as well there is no money for tuition or uniforms, so many of the orphans do not go to school. One family went without food for 5 days except what they could beg from neighbours. The photo is of one of these grandmothers and there are many more to share when I get home. They have a dignity in hardship that is hard to describe. We will continue to collect glasses for them at VVC throughout the year to send over with volunteers.
A Weekend in South Africa.
I crossed the border to South Africa with four friends last weekend for a mini holiday. We stayed at a fantastic lodge run by English ex-Pats. They purchased the little lodge, im the middle of a 3,000acre farm, six years ago. It was a combination of English Country garden and funk. The roses and stone cottages were set beside a thatched pig house and a mushroom shaped thatched sauna.There were hammocks, a large wooden chess set on the lawn and meals cooked by a Thai chef....incredible. The first night I was overwhelmed by sensory delights, the quiet and the many feasts for my senses....picture swimming under the African stars and hearing a jackal. The Saturday was an outride at the nearby polo farm, then we stayed to watch a game of polo. The next day we had a ride around a 6000 acre game farm in the back of a 4X4 that is hard to describe. We saw wild scenery from another world while spotting wildebeast, antelope , zebra and trucking thru runoff ditches. Also looked for agate and had a history lesson from our Afrikaaner game warden. The Sat night there was a party at our lodge and the cast of characters could have been from a novel, including the polo pro from Zimbabwe. Complete with 70s music and tye dye, it was a journey back to some other time. The trip there was interesting too as South Africa is so visually different than Lesotho. Quite a 48 hours. Now back to concentrate on the children for 2 weeks.Lots of pictures of all of this for those interested !
Friday, March 7, 2008
A Most Important Night - HIV Questions
It occurred to me about a week ago that the teens might have questions about HIV/AIDS and need more time and answers. It is a logical assumption that every
person, even at home, absorbs only part of what they are taught. I had the feeling
there might be more problems here if the teaching had been in English in the past.
Phil disagreed, saying they have had it multiple times. Taking a gamble, and with Sister Victoria’ s blessing, I put out an anonymous question box and said I would answer all the questions on Saturday night coming. The box was full Friday and I was pleased and slightly intimidated….my idea had been a good one, but the questions were intense. I had to make a few calls to get some of the answers, and steel myself for the session.
I was feeling this may be the most important thing I have done here, as I was seeing an opportunity to impact the teens and perhaps save even one life. I phoned around and got all the answers. Saturday night came and I had prepared a short true and false quiz, which indeed they did well on. I also prepared two charts- one on transmission
and the concept of viral load and how HIV turns into AIDS. The questions varied from where did HIV come from, to can a couple with one person HIV positive have a baby? There were a lot of questions about particular types of sexual risk, many about sharing razors/clippers etc, and another about other STDs. It was a fantastic session.
We limited to 14 yrs and up, threw in some humor and I think most people understood my accent. In slow English and very directly I answered all the questions and we went on to watch a movie with no further ado. I am so glad I tried it. I put the question box back and said before I left I would answer all the questions in it, and invited other topics. Lets see what happens.
Last year the kids were all tested. There is one little girl here, one of my favorites, who is positive. She keeps her secret, and is not depressed. She goes off to the clinic for CD4 counts on her own now. It is more testimony to the Sisters skill and human resilience. I cannot help but worry about what her life will bring her, but if she isn’t sad, I must not be.
On a lighter note, Friday night I proposed a Limbo contest, having tired of making Bingo cards. It was a hit and we used a long piece of bamboo and sang the limbo song. We had two groups - best older boy and girl won and the best younger (under 5 ft) boy and girl also won something. Pens and candies are the staple, but a head bandanna was the coveted offering. They were good at it and the Hip Hop dancing they did later was even better. It was a fun and raucous blow out kind of evening.
Schedule now very busy with Phil gone. Do the eggs, preschool, painting the mural, eggs again, and two hours computer lab every afternoon after school. I have break then two hours for homework tutoring. I wonder how it will all go when I leave as there is not another volunteer lined up. The computer training and the homework are so important -some of the kids don’t know what the Internet is. A book I read said grassroots Africa may be in danger of missing out on the information revolution unless there is a miracle, and that’s really one of the smaller of many serious problems. However, there are many times, here at the orphanage, when I see these kids dancing, playing, learning and getting three meals a day that I know they are luckier than many others .Hopefully, for the most part, they will be alright…
person, even at home, absorbs only part of what they are taught. I had the feeling
there might be more problems here if the teaching had been in English in the past.
Phil disagreed, saying they have had it multiple times. Taking a gamble, and with Sister Victoria’ s blessing, I put out an anonymous question box and said I would answer all the questions on Saturday night coming. The box was full Friday and I was pleased and slightly intimidated….my idea had been a good one, but the questions were intense. I had to make a few calls to get some of the answers, and steel myself for the session.
I was feeling this may be the most important thing I have done here, as I was seeing an opportunity to impact the teens and perhaps save even one life. I phoned around and got all the answers. Saturday night came and I had prepared a short true and false quiz, which indeed they did well on. I also prepared two charts- one on transmission
and the concept of viral load and how HIV turns into AIDS. The questions varied from where did HIV come from, to can a couple with one person HIV positive have a baby? There were a lot of questions about particular types of sexual risk, many about sharing razors/clippers etc, and another about other STDs. It was a fantastic session.
We limited to 14 yrs and up, threw in some humor and I think most people understood my accent. In slow English and very directly I answered all the questions and we went on to watch a movie with no further ado. I am so glad I tried it. I put the question box back and said before I left I would answer all the questions in it, and invited other topics. Lets see what happens.
Last year the kids were all tested. There is one little girl here, one of my favorites, who is positive. She keeps her secret, and is not depressed. She goes off to the clinic for CD4 counts on her own now. It is more testimony to the Sisters skill and human resilience. I cannot help but worry about what her life will bring her, but if she isn’t sad, I must not be.
On a lighter note, Friday night I proposed a Limbo contest, having tired of making Bingo cards. It was a hit and we used a long piece of bamboo and sang the limbo song. We had two groups - best older boy and girl won and the best younger (under 5 ft) boy and girl also won something. Pens and candies are the staple, but a head bandanna was the coveted offering. They were good at it and the Hip Hop dancing they did later was even better. It was a fun and raucous blow out kind of evening.
Schedule now very busy with Phil gone. Do the eggs, preschool, painting the mural, eggs again, and two hours computer lab every afternoon after school. I have break then two hours for homework tutoring. I wonder how it will all go when I leave as there is not another volunteer lined up. The computer training and the homework are so important -some of the kids don’t know what the Internet is. A book I read said grassroots Africa may be in danger of missing out on the information revolution unless there is a miracle, and that’s really one of the smaller of many serious problems. However, there are many times, here at the orphanage, when I see these kids dancing, playing, learning and getting three meals a day that I know they are luckier than many others .Hopefully, for the most part, they will be alright…
Wednesday, February 27, 2008
Bingo and Brai
Friday night is a night for fun, usually dancing to pop/hip hop or practicing the traditional dances. Last night we had a Bingo again. I made 60 homemade cards with the help of 2 of the teens – each 5X5 squares with different letters excluding Z and not one the same! I had picked out 12 prizes earlier in the day, the best two being sunglasses. Bingo is a treat and taken very seriously and even the kitchen ladies/den mothers play. I pulled the letters out of a teapot, slowly, to prolong things…it was great fun and the smallest player won first. Keneuoe picked the small leopard print glasses to the chagrin of the teens. By the time we got to the 7th place or so 20 people yelled Bingo, so I am off today to buy 20 pens. There is urgency to it all- especially to the procurement of anything. There is frenzy around eating, getting prizes, taking photos that would not be understood by anyone back home. A feeling of chronic deprivation and the fear you will get left out are always present with the kids.
I had the pleasure of being invited to a family home this weekend. The lady Me Mapoloko (Mother of Poloko) worked with me at the HL office and leadership camp. When I told her I wanted to learn to cook African food, she invited me for overnight and church. We had a traditional meal of Papa (corn meal) and Moroho (chopped cabbage) with cold bean salad and beetroot salad. Their home is lovely, with a beautiful garden, big entertainment system (we watched Nigerian movies Saturday night) – but no running water. You cannot imagine how this affects everything you do or don’t do- but how well they manage. Church was a great experience, despite the fact it was in Sesotho and I missed the sermon. The music was great, though more like Anglican and less like Gospel than I had imagined. The women were so beautiful in traditional dress with a sense of identity and dignity that radiated. Others were in western dress, quite done up and men impressive all in suits. It was a more western experience than I had expected and moving to see such open faith. The church was filled with music throughout, full harmony and no organ!
The final experience of the big weekend was the “Brai” South African for Bar-b-que.
Phil leaves this week and the kids are upset. He has been here for 6 months and especially the boys have opened up to him. He and I went to town at 8 a.m. Saturday and ended up walking back almost a mile from the public taxi with charcoal, 6 freezer packs of chicken and the ice cream, which was pretty well soup by then. On Sunday, we set up a half oil drum and it took 2 hrs to bar-b –que it all. Kids were amazing and did all the work. They had Papa and meat (nama) followed by ice cream on the cone and it was a hit. The music and singing after dinner for Phil was the best yet and there were speeches that had me choked up- even a poem titled “My hero” I told him afterwards that he may never have such an incredible tribute again.
Today I start a new week, doing the mural, starting to be responsible for the computer labs two hours daily after school. It will be a lot more now that I am on my own. I have set a goal of having all of the 60 names memorized this week, add a few daily. Then there are the eggs at 7 a.m. and 11 a.m. after preschool ( and the wrath of Me Puleng if I fail to materialize). Lots to do and not much time to worry about home and my business, it’s so totally engrossing here.
I had the pleasure of being invited to a family home this weekend. The lady Me Mapoloko (Mother of Poloko) worked with me at the HL office and leadership camp. When I told her I wanted to learn to cook African food, she invited me for overnight and church. We had a traditional meal of Papa (corn meal) and Moroho (chopped cabbage) with cold bean salad and beetroot salad. Their home is lovely, with a beautiful garden, big entertainment system (we watched Nigerian movies Saturday night) – but no running water. You cannot imagine how this affects everything you do or don’t do- but how well they manage. Church was a great experience, despite the fact it was in Sesotho and I missed the sermon. The music was great, though more like Anglican and less like Gospel than I had imagined. The women were so beautiful in traditional dress with a sense of identity and dignity that radiated. Others were in western dress, quite done up and men impressive all in suits. It was a more western experience than I had expected and moving to see such open faith. The church was filled with music throughout, full harmony and no organ!
The final experience of the big weekend was the “Brai” South African for Bar-b-que.
Phil leaves this week and the kids are upset. He has been here for 6 months and especially the boys have opened up to him. He and I went to town at 8 a.m. Saturday and ended up walking back almost a mile from the public taxi with charcoal, 6 freezer packs of chicken and the ice cream, which was pretty well soup by then. On Sunday, we set up a half oil drum and it took 2 hrs to bar-b –que it all. Kids were amazing and did all the work. They had Papa and meat (nama) followed by ice cream on the cone and it was a hit. The music and singing after dinner for Phil was the best yet and there were speeches that had me choked up- even a poem titled “My hero” I told him afterwards that he may never have such an incredible tribute again.
Today I start a new week, doing the mural, starting to be responsible for the computer labs two hours daily after school. It will be a lot more now that I am on my own. I have set a goal of having all of the 60 names memorized this week, add a few daily. Then there are the eggs at 7 a.m. and 11 a.m. after preschool ( and the wrath of Me Puleng if I fail to materialize). Lots to do and not much time to worry about home and my business, it’s so totally engrossing here.
Friday, February 22, 2008
Its About The Children
I have talked about a lot of things, but not too much about the children here. They are fantastic in general, considering what has happened to some of them. The nuns are responsible for a lot of that by offering stability and good sense guidelines. But it is truly impressive how positive and resilient most of them are.
There are two groups here. There are children that have nothing at all and no family. Two children just came here to stay, brought in by neighbors. Their mother dies in December and the day of her funeral min January their father died. They have an elderly grandfather that could not cope with the situation, so the neighbors took charge. Another girl here was left with a young sibling and mother in jail and was
begging for food for both of them when pulled off the street. She does not wish to see her mother again, out of jail now but not interested. There are others that have had tragedy and abuse and one sweet little girl that is HIV positve. She appears healthy and they monitir her CD4 counts, but none can’t help but wonder what her life will bring her.
The other group of children are considered vulnerable. They may have one parent or relatives they can visit on holidays. They may even have family support as occasional visits or clothes. They are here because they cannot be cared for properly.
These kids are counseled by the Sisters to act the same and never appear to be different or to have more. They seem to understand and pull that off, certainly everyone is level. Some of these children have fathers away mining and their mother is gone or deceased. It is different for each one, but in general the situation is so different that Canada we can’t imagine this sad reality. Funerals every weekend and a resignation to all that entails.
There are three mother types here, ladies that live with the children in the dorms and uncomplainingly feed, cloth and clean up after them The menu is set every week and the kids get meat once, chicken on Sundays. Also they get eggs twice, vegetables twice and milk twice on the other days. Every meal has papa, the dry cream of wheat type staple food (maize meal) The children each have a cup, plate and bowl numbered on the bottom with white paint and they clean them themselves. There is no cutlery.
I say none of this to sensationalize, as they are used to it and there is no more or less significance or acceptance (or lack of it) to it all than we have to our every day routine. The kids are quite happy and the teens are very cool.
I have to watch how much I show affection or favoritism. The few that really pull at me are the youngest here (the older girls command something more like respect
as they care for the little ones and work hard ) I realize and was coached to know it would only be harder for them and me when I leave if I were to allow too many feelings to show, so I try to be level, approachable and spread it all around. This is one of my biggest personal challenges – to not get too attached. All I have to do is to think about many volunteers coming and going to know how hard it would be for them and I “get “ the necessity of boundaries.
We are having a Brai ( bar b que) Sunday as a going away party for Phil and we are buying chicken and ice cream for all. Afterwards, I will do another BINGO, very popular….this time with prizes to 10 places.
Tuesday, February 19, 2008
Amazing Connections
It is amazing how we can connect to other humans across cultural, age, and language barriers. The concert for the visiting Sister Superior was incredible. The kids at Bytown could be in a competition for dancing and singing. It was two hours, well choreographed and a real treat for Sr. Lorraine, visiting us from Ottawa.
I videoed alot of different dances hoping to share them when I get home. But the highlight for me was a spontaneous few moments in the kitchen with the little girls. They all had new costumes, full skirts and headresses. From where I stood filming in the hall, I was well aware you could hear all too well the events in the kitchen. When the 6 ten year olds had finished their shoulder dance, they went to the kitchen to change, but within a few seconds one emerged and grabbed my arm, signalling I should follow her. They indicated they wanted photos before they disrobed, and started to do poses and giggles. One of them, DiToboho, is a clown , a mini Bette Midler.....you can get the picture. I shushed them repeatedly with my finger, knowing we could get stopped , but the third girl, posing by the stove covered with old pots and lids rattled a loose lid pretty badly, causing us to freeze. Sister Alex opened the door, looking at me as if to say what's going on ? I instinctively hid my camera behind my back and nodded at her- implying I was the adult and all was under control. Amazing how quickly we became conspirators, and all without a word of English. She retreated and we finished the shots in fits of suppressed giggles. I am totally tight with those girls now and promised to print the pictures for them at home.
Sister Victoria and I have an idea they will love- send back a box pf photos and put up a bulletin board !
Of all the things I do for them, photos are the favorite demanded daily....followed by help with homework !
This weekend I have been asked to visit a co worker from HL who lives here in Maseru, and I will learn to cook African food Saturday in preparation for the feast I promised when I return.
I videoed alot of different dances hoping to share them when I get home. But the highlight for me was a spontaneous few moments in the kitchen with the little girls. They all had new costumes, full skirts and headresses. From where I stood filming in the hall, I was well aware you could hear all too well the events in the kitchen. When the 6 ten year olds had finished their shoulder dance, they went to the kitchen to change, but within a few seconds one emerged and grabbed my arm, signalling I should follow her. They indicated they wanted photos before they disrobed, and started to do poses and giggles. One of them, DiToboho, is a clown , a mini Bette Midler.....you can get the picture. I shushed them repeatedly with my finger, knowing we could get stopped , but the third girl, posing by the stove covered with old pots and lids rattled a loose lid pretty badly, causing us to freeze. Sister Alex opened the door, looking at me as if to say what's going on ? I instinctively hid my camera behind my back and nodded at her- implying I was the adult and all was under control. Amazing how quickly we became conspirators, and all without a word of English. She retreated and we finished the shots in fits of suppressed giggles. I am totally tight with those girls now and promised to print the pictures for them at home.
Sister Victoria and I have an idea they will love- send back a box pf photos and put up a bulletin board !
Of all the things I do for them, photos are the favorite demanded daily....followed by help with homework !
This weekend I have been asked to visit a co worker from HL who lives here in Maseru, and I will learn to cook African food Saturday in preparation for the feast I promised when I return.
Monday, February 18, 2008
The Riding Lesson
I traveled 3 hours on public and stayed two nights in Leribe to teach Donna, our volunteer coordinator a bit of a riding lesson. She has rented a horse by the month, but is a complete novice and the owners of the horse don’t speak English. It was great to see the HL gang and go out for a meal, but the place we stayed was mosquito infested and the trip was spoiled by two torturous nights awake dealing with hundreds of swarming persistent mosquitoes. I am covered with angry bites that I am obviously having an allergic reaction to, and must say I have never been so miserable or itchy with bites. A new variety of mosquito, I suppose, but I look like I have scabies.
We drove to the farmers for the lesson and found the horses were not all there. His wife invited us into the house to wait. With its tin roof it was well over 30 degrees inside and we sat patiently to be polite, with the flies, until we were all dripping. We emerged to find the poor looking horses back and being tacked up for us. The tack was also very poor with broken saddles and elastic reins and stirrup leathers. It was all very much borderline for safety. I was so glad to be there as they could not speak English and Donna has little Sesotho, so no help was forthcoming. The stirrups were far too short when she got on and it was obvious they were to be left that way. I jumped off and changed them. Also the horse I had was quiet and hers very up, so I recommended to her she start by leasing mine for a month or two! I continued to be a pain to them, I am sure, as they tried to take us across the busy highway and I insisted we turn around and continue through the fields. Eventually, we had a nice hack and she learned to turn and stop. No pictures were allowed of me, suffice to say !
We drove to the farmers for the lesson and found the horses were not all there. His wife invited us into the house to wait. With its tin roof it was well over 30 degrees inside and we sat patiently to be polite, with the flies, until we were all dripping. We emerged to find the poor looking horses back and being tacked up for us. The tack was also very poor with broken saddles and elastic reins and stirrup leathers. It was all very much borderline for safety. I was so glad to be there as they could not speak English and Donna has little Sesotho, so no help was forthcoming. The stirrups were far too short when she got on and it was obvious they were to be left that way. I jumped off and changed them. Also the horse I had was quiet and hers very up, so I recommended to her she start by leasing mine for a month or two! I continued to be a pain to them, I am sure, as they tried to take us across the busy highway and I insisted we turn around and continue through the fields. Eventually, we had a nice hack and she learned to turn and stop. No pictures were allowed of me, suffice to say !
A Visitor
The Sisters of Charity are a Roman Catholic order which was started in Canada and is associated with the Elizabeth Bruyere Centre for Palliative Care. The Order runs shelters and orphanages all over the world and is charged with caring for the poor and underprivileged. In Pitseng , where the leadership camp was held, we stayed at a convent where they care for elderly and abandoned women many of whom are blind or have had strokes. They have strong presence in Lesotho. They also have many shelters and convents in Japan , Thailand and the Caribbean. This weekend we have the Sister Superior, from Canada this year, visiting our orphanage.
The children have been cleaning everything, washing the windows and sweeping the grounds. It has been a virtual cleaning frenzy. Today I was asked to prepare welcome signs on the computer and help blow up many balloons with the kids. We tied them together and waited at the gate until the visitor’s vehicle arrived. What a great reception- 60 running , cheering kids surrounded her car. Today there are meetings and special meals and prayers. Tomorrow is church and a special concert of Traditional song and dance followed by a feast. It is easy to get caught up in it all.
We have also managed to take a photo of each of the children and have them printed. They will be presented as a surprise tonight. Lots of them do not have one photo of themselves. The other highlight tonight will be bingo on homemade cards for 50.
Any suggestions regarding prolonging bingo or variations on the game would be appreciated ( please put on the blog comments)
After the big weekend I will be finding the paint and starting my mural in the dining hall.
The children have been cleaning everything, washing the windows and sweeping the grounds. It has been a virtual cleaning frenzy. Today I was asked to prepare welcome signs on the computer and help blow up many balloons with the kids. We tied them together and waited at the gate until the visitor’s vehicle arrived. What a great reception- 60 running , cheering kids surrounded her car. Today there are meetings and special meals and prayers. Tomorrow is church and a special concert of Traditional song and dance followed by a feast. It is easy to get caught up in it all.
We have also managed to take a photo of each of the children and have them printed. They will be presented as a surprise tonight. Lots of them do not have one photo of themselves. The other highlight tonight will be bingo on homemade cards for 50.
Any suggestions regarding prolonging bingo or variations on the game would be appreciated ( please put on the blog comments)
After the big weekend I will be finding the paint and starting my mural in the dining hall.
Thursday, February 14, 2008
Routine........
I have my routine here down pat. The orphanage runs a preschool and the mornings are full. I lead the exercises and help with printing of numbers and letters. The kids know Phil and I cant speak their language and also can't discipline them, so they get out of hand often and we call in the nuns. It is getting easier for me to let go of these types of situations and walk away, something that would be very hard for me ordinarily. In the teen study hall period at night, I am very useful and called on a lot. There again things get very noisy and out of hand unless a nun is there. One of the kids asked me solve a dispute and it was impossible in English- they are often over shared items. Finally, one of the other teens said to me “let it go” - so very wise- and I just walked away and threw up my hands and was shortly helping someone else. Very challenging for me, who often has to be a fixer upper.
We went to town the other day as the HL staff were here. All had a dinner out and were hassled a bit coming back to the car in the dark. Just verbal, but Phil has a good attitude about it. Some of the people here are pleased to have the help, many are passive and a few just don’t want us foreigners here. And that’s o.k. No one is a hero and perhaps we make only a tiny difference, such as picking up a crying child for a moment. But they have a right to resent us considering history and the wealth gap so we must accept all of that or not come. There have been many who have made a large difference however, such as Bob Birnbaum and crew of OH Africa, who treat many with lifesaving retrovirals and run the Tsepong clinic.
I continue to be overwhelmed with wonderful and exotic sights sounds and smells.
Some of these I may capture and show everyone back home, but many I can not.
The wonderful baby of the Bytown, three year old Weetumeng, sitting on the debris covered floor of the hot dining room watching the final game of the Africa cup on the TV behind bars, sucking on a long deceased corn cob, so happy. I think the moments I have most treasured have been short and spontaneous, such as reading a chapter to a teen who “ suddenly got it” or sharing an unripe peach with a three year old. I also really enjoy helping with the farm, no surprise, and am making a few good recommendations. Tomorrow I go to Leribe for the day to give a riding lesson, should be fun as the horses and tack could be a bit unpredictable. Back to the orphanage for the long run after that. Wish me luck and hello to all at home.
We went to town the other day as the HL staff were here. All had a dinner out and were hassled a bit coming back to the car in the dark. Just verbal, but Phil has a good attitude about it. Some of the people here are pleased to have the help, many are passive and a few just don’t want us foreigners here. And that’s o.k. No one is a hero and perhaps we make only a tiny difference, such as picking up a crying child for a moment. But they have a right to resent us considering history and the wealth gap so we must accept all of that or not come. There have been many who have made a large difference however, such as Bob Birnbaum and crew of OH Africa, who treat many with lifesaving retrovirals and run the Tsepong clinic.
I continue to be overwhelmed with wonderful and exotic sights sounds and smells.
Some of these I may capture and show everyone back home, but many I can not.
The wonderful baby of the Bytown, three year old Weetumeng, sitting on the debris covered floor of the hot dining room watching the final game of the Africa cup on the TV behind bars, sucking on a long deceased corn cob, so happy. I think the moments I have most treasured have been short and spontaneous, such as reading a chapter to a teen who “ suddenly got it” or sharing an unripe peach with a three year old. I also really enjoy helping with the farm, no surprise, and am making a few good recommendations. Tomorrow I go to Leribe for the day to give a riding lesson, should be fun as the horses and tack could be a bit unpredictable. Back to the orphanage for the long run after that. Wish me luck and hello to all at home.
Saturday, February 9, 2008
First week at the Orphanage
My routine in the orphange is orderly and quiet. I start the day picking up eggs and have befriended the small, slightly fierce keeper of the poultry- Puleng. She is softening as I show up every day to help her and genuinely like starting the day as a farmer. I am learning Excel and will do a new monthly ledger for the production to track the costs/profits etc . This will hopefully help the Sisters apply for and get more funding and birds.
I then help with the preschool until noon, singing, practicing colors and numbers, playing repetitive games designed to teach English. Things often get out of hand as they realize we are not able to speak Sesotho or discipline them and we call in the Sisters for reinforcement. I am finding it difficult not to be able to communicate, but generally can make up games that are universal. One of the favorites is singing.....brought a tambourine and have fashioned spoons and sticks into a band. Tweenkla Tweenkla Leetle Star will never be the same. Animal noises are popular too !
I then have a couple quiet hours and have started writing the final chapters of my personal Herriot book. Good to be back at it.
After school, the older ones like to play cards with me or a game outside. The girls favorite game is trying to build a pile of bricks while avoiding being hit by a ball made up of plastic bags. They play barefoot, there is no cost, and it never gets old ! The boys play soccer ( there is only one ball). I may help with the computer lab, but its the domain of the other volunteer here Phillip- young guy from Ottawa.
At night there is study hall from 7-9 and I am busy tutoring for those 2 hours. I have had to remember some math and physics ( wish it were better) but my Biology, Chemistry and English help is top notch ( thanks to Tory my niece) I am enjoying this too..
Last night I saw the most wonderful concert after dinner. Friday night they always do traditional song and dance. The kids make more music with pails, hands, feet and voices than most boom boxes. There was a dance for the girls with white grass type skirts with bottle caps sewn into and under them and they threw them up with their behinds, as well they did a shoulder dance that was amazing. The boys did more of a Stomp production that was also excellent. I look forward to every Friday night and perhaps videoing it. The ladies who live there, sing and create startling vocal calls and noises throughout. Another very different experience.
I have been consigned to paint a mural around the top of the dining hall, based on the drawings of animals I have made for the kids to color. I Will make stencils and get the supplies next week. This will probably be my most lasting legacy here.
I then help with the preschool until noon, singing, practicing colors and numbers, playing repetitive games designed to teach English. Things often get out of hand as they realize we are not able to speak Sesotho or discipline them and we call in the Sisters for reinforcement. I am finding it difficult not to be able to communicate, but generally can make up games that are universal. One of the favorites is singing.....brought a tambourine and have fashioned spoons and sticks into a band. Tweenkla Tweenkla Leetle Star will never be the same. Animal noises are popular too !
I then have a couple quiet hours and have started writing the final chapters of my personal Herriot book. Good to be back at it.
After school, the older ones like to play cards with me or a game outside. The girls favorite game is trying to build a pile of bricks while avoiding being hit by a ball made up of plastic bags. They play barefoot, there is no cost, and it never gets old ! The boys play soccer ( there is only one ball). I may help with the computer lab, but its the domain of the other volunteer here Phillip- young guy from Ottawa.
At night there is study hall from 7-9 and I am busy tutoring for those 2 hours. I have had to remember some math and physics ( wish it were better) but my Biology, Chemistry and English help is top notch ( thanks to Tory my niece) I am enjoying this too..
Last night I saw the most wonderful concert after dinner. Friday night they always do traditional song and dance. The kids make more music with pails, hands, feet and voices than most boom boxes. There was a dance for the girls with white grass type skirts with bottle caps sewn into and under them and they threw them up with their behinds, as well they did a shoulder dance that was amazing. The boys did more of a Stomp production that was also excellent. I look forward to every Friday night and perhaps videoing it. The ladies who live there, sing and create startling vocal calls and noises throughout. Another very different experience.
I have been consigned to paint a mural around the top of the dining hall, based on the drawings of animals I have made for the kids to color. I Will make stencils and get the supplies next week. This will probably be my most lasting legacy here.
Tuesday, February 5, 2008
Trip to Thaba Tseka
We left on Tues the 29th , four of us in the 4X4 Toyota truck, with many well wishes to enjoy the drive and the area around Thaba Tseka, a town isolated in the interior mountains. Our truck was full of clothes and shoes, knapsacks, suitcases and food- oh yes some spare diesel. The 120 km trip is 5 hrs long. The first part was a gentle climb through hills such as we have already seen travelling to distribute clothing, mud rondavels everywhere in small clusters, people walking through fields and along the roads , small tin storefronts. The exciting part begins suddenly as we began to climb to the first pass in a series of dramatic switchbacks taking us to 3500 metres….may I say unrelentingly ! The view around each turn was incredible. We then proceeded downward in the same way, in 2nd the whole time, only to repeat this three times over three passes. We then saw the incredible Khatse Dam, responsible for 35% of the GDP via the sale of water to South Africa- and also responsible for the HIV crisis in this area in a way that sadly may not be mentioned here. After that, we drove on incredibly bumpy dirt roads for 2 hours until we reached our destination.
There are 5 twinned schools here, and we are to visit them all, get updates on the sponsored children and outfit them. As well, there are projects to consider and evaluate- should we restock cattle and poultry to the schools if mortality high and production low. Should we provide stoves for the winter or new desks? One school I particularly liked was Khatlehong, great students and teachers. Good results in their national exams- well worth support…yet they need so much. Classrooms have 67 and 75 kids, desks are falling apart and some children sit 4 where there should be 2, or on a metal frame with no seat or desk top. Mostly they need 3 new classrooms- I will spend an hour tomorrow with a lady in charge of poultry and try to write a proposal and budget for restocking then layers and broilers and how to make it work so it feeds the kids here, all short on protein, as well as creating sales or a profit. I am outside my comfort zone, but I am all they have and I know if I was here a month I could get it up and running for them. First to write the proposal and get the approval for funds and thus the birds in hand !
The town is a little wild west, more like the original untouched Basotholand . There is one main street with heavy gravel and lots of small stores and vendors. Herd boys come into town with their animals to pick up feed bags, lots of riders everywhere. There is a hospital and a nursing school and also a few houses build by Canadians in the 80s when CIDA was here doing medical development. Children playing everywhere you look, happy voices- content with very little. I sat down this morning for a moment after a hot walk and was soon surrounded, little ones that love to touch my white skin and study my eyes and of course the older boys wanting to wear my sunglasses. They are curious and enchanting. There are always a few whites around, “Lahota”, development people and doctors, and we seem to be welcome for the most part. You can hear the occasional slur or has a stone thrown at the car, but then it is balanced by so many being kind and so many soft greetings “ Dumella”……in the street.
Another school we visited was Sefapanong- the outpost. It took an hour to drive there….about 5 km. It is on a hill and we had to off road in the incredible Toyota again !
We are talking off roading as in heads banging on the windows of the truck. The teachers greet us, present their concerns. Me Mampake the orphan leader interviews the orphans and sponsored children and gets updates and I- you guessed it- talked about chickens for an hour and came up with a project proposal and made recommendations to HL and the school.
The last day of our visit, I got up early and to the home of my favorite teacher and new friend Me Julia.She is 55, dignified yet incredibly fun ( joined us for cards the first night). She has 6 children, but many are married and gone, yet she is raising several grandchildren and two orphans…..she and her husband are teachers. She is HIV positive and takes her ARV meds cheerfully and lets the children in her class know and help care for her. She is magnetic- the kids love her…and she volunteered to set up a ride for me and pulled it off. The horses are like small standardbred -arab crosses, small hard muscle and incredibly strong and fit. She came with me and the two guides and we rode for three hours. Ended up doing a jaunt thru town to meet a new seamstress (for uniforms) and we parked the horse several times to meet her friends….she had not ridden for years. The highlight was leaving the horses to graze and standing on a cliff a mile over a twisting river- scenery I can’t describe- with people and mules far below, walking into town. Or was the highlight seeing her canter around her schoolyard hollering and the kids pouring out of their classes laughing and cheering. We had “Sour Porridge” for sustenance ( kind of like cream of wheat with vinegar in it )and carried on.
More on the herd boys. I will never forget them but cannot take their pictures. It is one of the major faces of Lesotho to me. They are young boys, not in school, and they are everywhere. There are no fences for livestock and so they are guarded. It may be 2 cattle or 20 angora goats with a mule thrown in. Their lives are in danger if they lose these animals. All through the country side and over the hills, they spend the day alone. They take no food and have no conveniences and can’t read or write. They dress in blankets, often dark grey and raggy, over red shorts and wear white rubber boots. They commonly carry colorful sticks and wear balaclavas with only eye holes. Sometimes the blankets are the colorful Basotho blankets, but there is always one or more blankets draped over them.
It is an image I had never imagined, but completely the norm here.
We are home again today, having written proposals, made new friends and dropped off all stuff for the kids. I gave my two pairs of reading glasses away and last saw one of them on a schoolgirl walking through town. I will somehow get more glasses back here. Some kids can't see the board.
Have groceries in hand while we have the truck….will wash clothes and off to then orphanage tomorrow for the next 6 weeks and an entirely new project and new friends !!
There are 5 twinned schools here, and we are to visit them all, get updates on the sponsored children and outfit them. As well, there are projects to consider and evaluate- should we restock cattle and poultry to the schools if mortality high and production low. Should we provide stoves for the winter or new desks? One school I particularly liked was Khatlehong, great students and teachers. Good results in their national exams- well worth support…yet they need so much. Classrooms have 67 and 75 kids, desks are falling apart and some children sit 4 where there should be 2, or on a metal frame with no seat or desk top. Mostly they need 3 new classrooms- I will spend an hour tomorrow with a lady in charge of poultry and try to write a proposal and budget for restocking then layers and broilers and how to make it work so it feeds the kids here, all short on protein, as well as creating sales or a profit. I am outside my comfort zone, but I am all they have and I know if I was here a month I could get it up and running for them. First to write the proposal and get the approval for funds and thus the birds in hand !
The town is a little wild west, more like the original untouched Basotholand . There is one main street with heavy gravel and lots of small stores and vendors. Herd boys come into town with their animals to pick up feed bags, lots of riders everywhere. There is a hospital and a nursing school and also a few houses build by Canadians in the 80s when CIDA was here doing medical development. Children playing everywhere you look, happy voices- content with very little. I sat down this morning for a moment after a hot walk and was soon surrounded, little ones that love to touch my white skin and study my eyes and of course the older boys wanting to wear my sunglasses. They are curious and enchanting. There are always a few whites around, “Lahota”, development people and doctors, and we seem to be welcome for the most part. You can hear the occasional slur or has a stone thrown at the car, but then it is balanced by so many being kind and so many soft greetings “ Dumella”……in the street.
Another school we visited was Sefapanong- the outpost. It took an hour to drive there….about 5 km. It is on a hill and we had to off road in the incredible Toyota again !
We are talking off roading as in heads banging on the windows of the truck. The teachers greet us, present their concerns. Me Mampake the orphan leader interviews the orphans and sponsored children and gets updates and I- you guessed it- talked about chickens for an hour and came up with a project proposal and made recommendations to HL and the school.
The last day of our visit, I got up early and to the home of my favorite teacher and new friend Me Julia.She is 55, dignified yet incredibly fun ( joined us for cards the first night). She has 6 children, but many are married and gone, yet she is raising several grandchildren and two orphans…..she and her husband are teachers. She is HIV positive and takes her ARV meds cheerfully and lets the children in her class know and help care for her. She is magnetic- the kids love her…and she volunteered to set up a ride for me and pulled it off. The horses are like small standardbred -arab crosses, small hard muscle and incredibly strong and fit. She came with me and the two guides and we rode for three hours. Ended up doing a jaunt thru town to meet a new seamstress (for uniforms) and we parked the horse several times to meet her friends….she had not ridden for years. The highlight was leaving the horses to graze and standing on a cliff a mile over a twisting river- scenery I can’t describe- with people and mules far below, walking into town. Or was the highlight seeing her canter around her schoolyard hollering and the kids pouring out of their classes laughing and cheering. We had “Sour Porridge” for sustenance ( kind of like cream of wheat with vinegar in it )and carried on.
More on the herd boys. I will never forget them but cannot take their pictures. It is one of the major faces of Lesotho to me. They are young boys, not in school, and they are everywhere. There are no fences for livestock and so they are guarded. It may be 2 cattle or 20 angora goats with a mule thrown in. Their lives are in danger if they lose these animals. All through the country side and over the hills, they spend the day alone. They take no food and have no conveniences and can’t read or write. They dress in blankets, often dark grey and raggy, over red shorts and wear white rubber boots. They commonly carry colorful sticks and wear balaclavas with only eye holes. Sometimes the blankets are the colorful Basotho blankets, but there is always one or more blankets draped over them.
It is an image I had never imagined, but completely the norm here.
We are home again today, having written proposals, made new friends and dropped off all stuff for the kids. I gave my two pairs of reading glasses away and last saw one of them on a schoolgirl walking through town. I will somehow get more glasses back here. Some kids can't see the board.
Have groceries in hand while we have the truck….will wash clothes and off to then orphanage tomorrow for the next 6 weeks and an entirely new project and new friends !!
Monday, January 28, 2008
To Thaba Tseka Tues!
Today was to do a final tabulation of clothes purchased, disbursed and remaining and tally the clothes needed for the trip to Thaba Tseka. We have bought out 3 stores locally, and will be getting a manager from Maseru to bring us the clothes to our office to take with us. They have plenty of stock in their warehouse and we finally realized we had better take it with us on Tuesday as the 5 hour journey over mountain roads will not be easy to repeat. I have some hopes of riding when there , with a local teacher and possibly a Swiss doctor- out of the tourist milieu- Will also be checking on several of the projects HL started there last year, including some involving animals. So I will put on my poultry vet hat, an amusing notion for all who know me. Will get news back after the five day trip. I have been told it incredibly beautiful and isolated and cannot wait to see it all.
So many projects...
The work at Help Lesotho is multilayered and at any one time there are 5 people working on several different projects each. One of them was obtaining solar cookers for 39 grandmothers last year. I heard them discussing the project and planning the follow up for the donors , which involves a Basotho staff member traveling to many villages, as there has to be a way to see if indeed the grandmothers are using them and saving money and time. Similarly, other projects must be followed up- desks for one school, book
shelves for another, a renovation after a fire and so it goes. Laptops whir and click, cell phones ring, all interrupted constantly by kids coming for clothes and older people coming to ask for help for their children. Peg is working on politics, permits and estimates for 2 community centers, a slow process as the land has to be secured and all takes longer than expected. However, it does march forward. The pace does not allow a lot of time to think about Canada, other than the evenings when we are all off the street, sharing stories and plans and watching movies on the laptops- I read into the night and try not to worry about things at home.
Yesterday, I went to Ficksburg South Africa once more to use the internet there to send photos and have a day out. Bruce, an engineer from Ottawa, and I walked across the border unchecked via the express lane as 200 others stood in the sun for hours waiting for customs. He has an express pass, tho I don't, and I ended up there with no stamp and worried about the return the entire time. The visit was good enough and the return across the SA border uneventful as we walked across again with no inspection of passports, me cruising nervously on his coat tails. Felt decadently privileged to be able to skip the brutal lines.
The day was almost ruined by the taxi ride back- a half hour turned into almost 2 hrs as the taxi van driver went back and forth , up and down the one bustling street of the border town Maputsoe, yelling out the window and cramming more people in. It was very hot in the window where I sat and as people got in and out he collected more instead of leaving the town and going to Leribe, ½ hr away. Near the end of the filling process he put 3 young men, Rastafarians I think, with fighting sticks , in the back seat. Fighting sticks are carried by young men and herd boys, showing aggression and a willingness to fight- you might say they represent machoismo. They may have been high on moonshine or pot and the trip home was horrible and a bit scary- they laughed loudly but also shrieked and yelled the same sharp HAH! chant word over and over- the rest of the 15 people crammed in the van, including old men and children, sitting resignedly with heads down wishing for it to end . It ruined the day.
shelves for another, a renovation after a fire and so it goes. Laptops whir and click, cell phones ring, all interrupted constantly by kids coming for clothes and older people coming to ask for help for their children. Peg is working on politics, permits and estimates for 2 community centers, a slow process as the land has to be secured and all takes longer than expected. However, it does march forward. The pace does not allow a lot of time to think about Canada, other than the evenings when we are all off the street, sharing stories and plans and watching movies on the laptops- I read into the night and try not to worry about things at home.
Yesterday, I went to Ficksburg South Africa once more to use the internet there to send photos and have a day out. Bruce, an engineer from Ottawa, and I walked across the border unchecked via the express lane as 200 others stood in the sun for hours waiting for customs. He has an express pass, tho I don't, and I ended up there with no stamp and worried about the return the entire time. The visit was good enough and the return across the SA border uneventful as we walked across again with no inspection of passports, me cruising nervously on his coat tails. Felt decadently privileged to be able to skip the brutal lines.
The day was almost ruined by the taxi ride back- a half hour turned into almost 2 hrs as the taxi van driver went back and forth , up and down the one bustling street of the border town Maputsoe, yelling out the window and cramming more people in. It was very hot in the window where I sat and as people got in and out he collected more instead of leaving the town and going to Leribe, ½ hr away. Near the end of the filling process he put 3 young men, Rastafarians I think, with fighting sticks , in the back seat. Fighting sticks are carried by young men and herd boys, showing aggression and a willingness to fight- you might say they represent machoismo. They may have been high on moonshine or pot and the trip home was horrible and a bit scary- they laughed loudly but also shrieked and yelled the same sharp HAH! chant word over and over- the rest of the 15 people crammed in the van, including old men and children, sitting resignedly with heads down wishing for it to end . It ruined the day.
Saturday, January 26, 2008
Wednesday, January 23, 2008
Sponsorhip Week
What this week means is that all the children with sponsors will show up to get uniforms including shoes, socks, pants, shirts and sweaters, and there will be many others coming for help. They have heard of us through friends but now we are not taking new applications, as there are 40 on the waiting list so we have to start turning away children today. There were about 20 people waiting at 7:30 when Carolyn, Michelle and I got there, so we all started taking names and sizes. The hardest one was a girl of 17 with good English who couldn't hold it together when I said we aren't taking new applications- she started crying and I asked a Basotho staff member to care for her- she hadn’t been able to pay last year for school and couldn’t go back to final year- we finally fit her in a fund called the achievers fund. Instinctively you know when to make exceptions.
There has been a lot of activity for three days around buying and lugging the clothes, in boxes, suitcases, down the hill, by taxi etc and then sorting and resorting as they get handed out. There are so many lists about what is what and what has been purchased and disbursed that we are now the "keepers of the lists" Makes VVC look like a snap! Had to drive to another town to ask 2 High Schools to get sizes for children that haven't come in and then back up country Thurs to purchase large order and get the clothes to these two schools.
There is a lot of concern regarding the association with the whites singling out the children so we have to be discreet. There is a little boy of 14, Paki, who has had an exceptionally hard time. He was associated with the Peace Corps as both his parents had died and he cares for his 12 yr old sister. They were very visible in his life and he started to be bullied and even assaulted at school. He has started with us and had to change schools, but there has to be continued support, as he has nothing, no food or fuel, so we must find a way to do it such as establishing secret drop off spots. Life here is incredibly hard for many, and as you can imagine, he is very solemn.
This will all wrap up soon as the children must have all the supplies this week to attend school and then I will be off to the orphanage.
There has been a lot of activity for three days around buying and lugging the clothes, in boxes, suitcases, down the hill, by taxi etc and then sorting and resorting as they get handed out. There are so many lists about what is what and what has been purchased and disbursed that we are now the "keepers of the lists" Makes VVC look like a snap! Had to drive to another town to ask 2 High Schools to get sizes for children that haven't come in and then back up country Thurs to purchase large order and get the clothes to these two schools.
There is a lot of concern regarding the association with the whites singling out the children so we have to be discreet. There is a little boy of 14, Paki, who has had an exceptionally hard time. He was associated with the Peace Corps as both his parents had died and he cares for his 12 yr old sister. They were very visible in his life and he started to be bullied and even assaulted at school. He has started with us and had to change schools, but there has to be continued support, as he has nothing, no food or fuel, so we must find a way to do it such as establishing secret drop off spots. Life here is incredibly hard for many, and as you can imagine, he is very solemn.
This will all wrap up soon as the children must have all the supplies this week to attend school and then I will be off to the orphanage.
Time in between
We had a great trip to Maseru on the Friday after camp. Maseru is 100 km from Leribe where we are stationed at the office. Carolyn, the director of Orphan programs and Volunteers, took us to the city in the new Toyota truck, standard, drive on the left, and the first time she had used it…. crazy traffic, taxi vans…we managed to get stuck in a mud track leading to the Orphanage…. we were delivering food left over from the camp.
It took 5 teenage boys and 15 minutes for us to get unstuck- after which I met Sister Margaret and saw the orphanage, my placement location, for the first time…there is a cluster of brick buildings around a central courtyard and a tidy kitchen and eating room, which is attached to the nuns quarters. There are dorms for boys and girls as well as a nice rondavel house that was built for the HL volunteers. Though the area is a nondescript suburbia of cement block homes with mud tracks running between them, there is a good feeling at the orphanage itself. I will go Jan 27 th.
We went downtown and spent some time in the city core. Very different to anything else I had seen in Lesotho, clean, bustling, signs of economic activity such as full restaurants.
Spent some time doing errands and at the Internet café before delivering shoes and other supplies to one of the top achieving girls at St Mary’s school and convent. She was there with her 2 yr old daughter waiting for us under the trees. The child was healthy and beautiful- HL supported Emily, the mother, through the pregnancy and got her back into school. She wants to be a doctor, and somehow I think there is a chance she may make it.
Saturday we wandered the market and downtown area of Leribe with another experienced volunteer. We were picking up school supplies for the coming week for the sponsored children. In the case of the boarding children it included candles, soap, other toiletries and also shoes, many sizes, in the standard black for boys and girls. The market area was a wild, vendor in tin booths selling everything from veggies to dresses and tin pots - with rutted mud tracks, garbage, loud music and rich smells everywhere. You cannot escape the essential African-ness of it all. Take the Caribbean and multiply by 10…definitely more fun in company though as otherwise may well have been hassled. We accomplished a lot, including setting up a voucher system for the kids at a big store where they can get their own supplies. Spent the rest of the days typing in speeches on leadership from the camp as they will be judged in Canada and monetary prizes presented at next years camp.
A third good day before the onslaught of the sponsorship week. Three of us went to Ficksburg South Africa for an outing. Sounds simple but we took public transport. There are the taxi vans and they are very crowded and today were worse due to going back to school week. They wait till they are full and then go down the road cramming even more people in. It was a fun experience, and on the way to the border, where you show your passport then walk across a bridge, I sat by a small girl who couldn't stop staring and laughing at my white face .It was a very fun interaction for me as she studied me at length. We shopped a bit in the Afrikaaner town (Dutch names and signs) but most of it was shut down for Sunday rest and then walked back across the bridge for the adventure home. The ½ hr ride took an hour and a half, torrential rain, cramming in people and parcels with the music/bass on max! At intervals the driver got out and shouted at other drivers for stealing his fares. There was a young man hanging out the side most the the time soliciting other passengers.
At night, as usual, we start to think about the children and the week ahead and make lists. Tomorrow a.m. there will be a line up to get vouchers and of others to find out if they have been accepted for sponsorship. This is very grass roots work as HL is still small, and the reality will hit all of us when we see them waiting tomorrow. Off to work at 7 a.m…it wills all happen this week and we will promise most of them we will get them into school even though we are scrambling.
It took 5 teenage boys and 15 minutes for us to get unstuck- after which I met Sister Margaret and saw the orphanage, my placement location, for the first time…there is a cluster of brick buildings around a central courtyard and a tidy kitchen and eating room, which is attached to the nuns quarters. There are dorms for boys and girls as well as a nice rondavel house that was built for the HL volunteers. Though the area is a nondescript suburbia of cement block homes with mud tracks running between them, there is a good feeling at the orphanage itself. I will go Jan 27 th.
We went downtown and spent some time in the city core. Very different to anything else I had seen in Lesotho, clean, bustling, signs of economic activity such as full restaurants.
Spent some time doing errands and at the Internet café before delivering shoes and other supplies to one of the top achieving girls at St Mary’s school and convent. She was there with her 2 yr old daughter waiting for us under the trees. The child was healthy and beautiful- HL supported Emily, the mother, through the pregnancy and got her back into school. She wants to be a doctor, and somehow I think there is a chance she may make it.
Saturday we wandered the market and downtown area of Leribe with another experienced volunteer. We were picking up school supplies for the coming week for the sponsored children. In the case of the boarding children it included candles, soap, other toiletries and also shoes, many sizes, in the standard black for boys and girls. The market area was a wild, vendor in tin booths selling everything from veggies to dresses and tin pots - with rutted mud tracks, garbage, loud music and rich smells everywhere. You cannot escape the essential African-ness of it all. Take the Caribbean and multiply by 10…definitely more fun in company though as otherwise may well have been hassled. We accomplished a lot, including setting up a voucher system for the kids at a big store where they can get their own supplies. Spent the rest of the days typing in speeches on leadership from the camp as they will be judged in Canada and monetary prizes presented at next years camp.
A third good day before the onslaught of the sponsorship week. Three of us went to Ficksburg South Africa for an outing. Sounds simple but we took public transport. There are the taxi vans and they are very crowded and today were worse due to going back to school week. They wait till they are full and then go down the road cramming even more people in. It was a fun experience, and on the way to the border, where you show your passport then walk across a bridge, I sat by a small girl who couldn't stop staring and laughing at my white face .It was a very fun interaction for me as she studied me at length. We shopped a bit in the Afrikaaner town (Dutch names and signs) but most of it was shut down for Sunday rest and then walked back across the bridge for the adventure home. The ½ hr ride took an hour and a half, torrential rain, cramming in people and parcels with the music/bass on max! At intervals the driver got out and shouted at other drivers for stealing his fares. There was a young man hanging out the side most the the time soliciting other passengers.
At night, as usual, we start to think about the children and the week ahead and make lists. Tomorrow a.m. there will be a line up to get vouchers and of others to find out if they have been accepted for sponsorship. This is very grass roots work as HL is still small, and the reality will hit all of us when we see them waiting tomorrow. Off to work at 7 a.m…it wills all happen this week and we will promise most of them we will get them into school even though we are scrambling.
Sunday, January 20, 2008
Friday, January 18, 2008
The Circus and Goodbyes
Thursday has passed and I am back in town, all goodbyes said and rooms cleaned- so much work today. Our final Showcase of circus acts was fun and the last day was filled with activities, popcorn, more megameal making and lots of photos. Certificates were passed out and the kids boarded their small buses home. It's been a crazy week trying to entertain, teach and supervise 140 teenagers….and we are all tired.
On the way back through the mountains I saw an unbelievable sight….a real African ceremony in a field….with a large man, central figure smeared in white paste and wearing a grass skirt and large stick, surrounded by people smeared in white on the ground. It was explained to me that these were girls about to go into the mountains for initiation to womanhood, which may include circumcision and the teaching of ancient rites. They are smeared with white and the boys would be smeared in red. Both boys and girls have the option of doing this at around 13 years. All considered, it is really a lot more primitive here than I had even imagined. More later.
Tomorrow we go to Maseru, the capital and get shoes and school supplies for the orphans here as well as dropping off food left over from the camp at the orphanage I am working at in February. A lunch out and a trip to the Internet Café will be a treat. Next week, I will be here for one week with the group to put sponsors and children together- it's the first week of school. And after that, I will be off to Maseru with one other volunteer and left to my own resources.
On the way back through the mountains I saw an unbelievable sight….a real African ceremony in a field….with a large man, central figure smeared in white paste and wearing a grass skirt and large stick, surrounded by people smeared in white on the ground. It was explained to me that these were girls about to go into the mountains for initiation to womanhood, which may include circumcision and the teaching of ancient rites. They are smeared with white and the boys would be smeared in red. Both boys and girls have the option of doing this at around 13 years. All considered, it is really a lot more primitive here than I had even imagined. More later.
Tomorrow we go to Maseru, the capital and get shoes and school supplies for the orphans here as well as dropping off food left over from the camp at the orphanage I am working at in February. A lunch out and a trip to the Internet Café will be a treat. Next week, I will be here for one week with the group to put sponsors and children together- it's the first week of school. And after that, I will be off to Maseru with one other volunteer and left to my own resources.
An amazing camp experience
Four volunteers remained after the trucks of supplies had left.
We left after them and took a private car/taxi the one hour drive to another town, scenery very different than anything I have seen, a bit like parts of Ecuador grassy mountains, crevices, sheep herders, block houses scattered here and there randomly and a few older rondavel type houses with thatched roofs. Oxen ploughing, a few people walking on the side of the road and randomly through the hill paths and a few horses.
The town of Pitseng where we were dropped off was not so nice, lots of young men loafing and staring at us and an assortment of dirty booths and stores, lots of garbage and the local bus drop off. That was all fine (we were waiting for Dean the volunteer in charge of teaching performing arts and circus, to pick us up. He was 45 min late as they were so busy setting up at the High School 5 km away. But we 4 whites drew the attention of a Zulu warrior type who obviously was not happy with us being there. This tall very thin man, in rags with a burlap sack of scrap metal shaped a lot like machetes started chanting and yelling and dancing around us, He was definitely not impressed with us, and hundreds of other people were watching. Phil, one of the other volunteers told me to avoid eye contact and we all casually as we could, backed up and made our way into a store and bought stuff. When we came out he had departed. THAT was interesting!
Shortly after we were picked up and taken to the school and neighboring convent grounds where the 10 female staff/volunteers are staying for the 5-day leadership camp.
From there on, it has been a steady whirlwind of work and sensory input, the overview being that there are 150 teenagers and 40 adults including teachers from many towns and Youth Leaders, lots of music and dirt and absolute essential different ness to Canada.
We have a block bungalow for the female staff, started with no water but got some after a day. There is no refrigeration anywhere, so we all have boxes of sterilized milk that goes bad. Three of us get up at 6, and get 5 dozen loaves of bread and take them to the kitchen. …there are 6 village women and they feed 500 students and the nun’s daily . Now they have us on top of that. They cook in three huge blackened drums bigger than oil drums with fires under them and boil everything. Rice and Papa (rather like dry corn cream of wheat in there and get stirred with sticks. They cook the eggs outside over an open fire and gather the twigs…. that’s 14 dozen eggs. The kitchen walls are black from smoke and there is no refrigerator. They cut everything on the same table and we serve 200 people 3 times daily, with the youth leaders, by placing food assembly line style on battered enamel plates you would not feed your pet on, and passing them up black stairs to a black window. The kids eat on metal tables that are bent and broken that we dug out of a garage…the plates and tin mugs are washed (so to speak) in a bucket outside the door and then placed in a big tin tub to use again…The 6 ladies work all day 12 hrs, in the smoke. If you are wondering if I am exaggerating, this doesn't even come close to describing it all.
The classes are over at the school, 500 ft away from the hall where we eat and do circus activities. We have classes in the morning and the teachers rotate. Kids and local teachers are in 8 groups and we have 2 lectures on our subject daily. Mine is conflict resolution. I do it with a wonderful Help Lesotho lady, very regal…Me Mapoloko, meaning mother of Poloko, each woman being named after her oldest son. She wears Basotho native dress and I have been teaching her to use the digital camera. She does most of the lecture in Sesotho as the students English are weak and I relax and enjoy being her assistant and watch the kids. The desks are broken and the floor is dirty and there are no brooms, garbage cans or anything else to clean in sight. So you get used to it and give up. This may be teaching me not to clean…!!! We are teaching conflict resolution to many age groups and we have 8 sessions to do. The emphasis is on defining conflict, its causes, the feelings it creates in the children and group discussion re solutions. Beating is the norm here for disciplining students and I have witnessed much resistance already in the few short days I have been here to changing that in the schools. In fact, many times the first solution to conflict that is offered are fighting or beating and the parents seem to wish that to continue. Imagine the reception Basotho men give us white ladies form Canada when we suggest dropping corporal punishment!.
In the afternoon, there is exercise, circus training and special sessions, such as HIV and AIDS education. Lots of the students play soccer. They also write letters to their sponsors. Today it rained and the Hall was full of red mud. We had a talent show tonight and they all sang and danced – so much talent. After that some of us mopped the gym, which will have to be done each night. The kids hung in there with staff and they each got a marshmallow. With three small buckets and 3 mops it took over one hour. We sang This Land is Your Land as our Canadian song and it was terrible…. but had a chance to laugh at ourselves and they had a chance to laugh at us.
Tomorrow night is the Circus Showcase, and some of the kids are going to do stilts.
As well, there are jugglers, Yo Yo-ers, Gymnasts and Plate spinners, of which I am one and have two little girls to perform with. We practiced our routine including bows and costumes and it was an amazing experience for me to work with these children, Molorane and Sebongile.
I gave two lectures on Animal Husbandry and they were well received by the teachers and nuns. Two beautiful ladies in full African dress, both school principles, sat and asked me questions in great English. I could hardly believe what I was doing and where I was. They decided I knew something and we got into discussion re cow breeds etc. The biggest laugh was when I told them dogs in Canada have beds and coats. It was even strange for me to say it…I networked (surprised?) and now have an invitation to visit
one woman and see her school and village and she says her friend will gladly take me riding in the mountains…. so now I have an amazing trip lined up.
Sometimes I have just sit and experience it from a point of view of sensations…smell, heat, sounds- I hope pictures tell the tale. I don't usually eat with the staff, but sit alone and watch the kids or talk to them. They have given me a Basotho name, Maletsatse, which means "Mother of the Sun” I asked a staff member if it might mean horses ass, but I'm good!. We leave here Thursday, but I will write more after the circus.
We left after them and took a private car/taxi the one hour drive to another town, scenery very different than anything I have seen, a bit like parts of Ecuador grassy mountains, crevices, sheep herders, block houses scattered here and there randomly and a few older rondavel type houses with thatched roofs. Oxen ploughing, a few people walking on the side of the road and randomly through the hill paths and a few horses.
The town of Pitseng where we were dropped off was not so nice, lots of young men loafing and staring at us and an assortment of dirty booths and stores, lots of garbage and the local bus drop off. That was all fine (we were waiting for Dean the volunteer in charge of teaching performing arts and circus, to pick us up. He was 45 min late as they were so busy setting up at the High School 5 km away. But we 4 whites drew the attention of a Zulu warrior type who obviously was not happy with us being there. This tall very thin man, in rags with a burlap sack of scrap metal shaped a lot like machetes started chanting and yelling and dancing around us, He was definitely not impressed with us, and hundreds of other people were watching. Phil, one of the other volunteers told me to avoid eye contact and we all casually as we could, backed up and made our way into a store and bought stuff. When we came out he had departed. THAT was interesting!
Shortly after we were picked up and taken to the school and neighboring convent grounds where the 10 female staff/volunteers are staying for the 5-day leadership camp.
From there on, it has been a steady whirlwind of work and sensory input, the overview being that there are 150 teenagers and 40 adults including teachers from many towns and Youth Leaders, lots of music and dirt and absolute essential different ness to Canada.
We have a block bungalow for the female staff, started with no water but got some after a day. There is no refrigeration anywhere, so we all have boxes of sterilized milk that goes bad. Three of us get up at 6, and get 5 dozen loaves of bread and take them to the kitchen. …there are 6 village women and they feed 500 students and the nun’s daily . Now they have us on top of that. They cook in three huge blackened drums bigger than oil drums with fires under them and boil everything. Rice and Papa (rather like dry corn cream of wheat in there and get stirred with sticks. They cook the eggs outside over an open fire and gather the twigs…. that’s 14 dozen eggs. The kitchen walls are black from smoke and there is no refrigerator. They cut everything on the same table and we serve 200 people 3 times daily, with the youth leaders, by placing food assembly line style on battered enamel plates you would not feed your pet on, and passing them up black stairs to a black window. The kids eat on metal tables that are bent and broken that we dug out of a garage…the plates and tin mugs are washed (so to speak) in a bucket outside the door and then placed in a big tin tub to use again…The 6 ladies work all day 12 hrs, in the smoke. If you are wondering if I am exaggerating, this doesn't even come close to describing it all.
The classes are over at the school, 500 ft away from the hall where we eat and do circus activities. We have classes in the morning and the teachers rotate. Kids and local teachers are in 8 groups and we have 2 lectures on our subject daily. Mine is conflict resolution. I do it with a wonderful Help Lesotho lady, very regal…Me Mapoloko, meaning mother of Poloko, each woman being named after her oldest son. She wears Basotho native dress and I have been teaching her to use the digital camera. She does most of the lecture in Sesotho as the students English are weak and I relax and enjoy being her assistant and watch the kids. The desks are broken and the floor is dirty and there are no brooms, garbage cans or anything else to clean in sight. So you get used to it and give up. This may be teaching me not to clean…!!! We are teaching conflict resolution to many age groups and we have 8 sessions to do. The emphasis is on defining conflict, its causes, the feelings it creates in the children and group discussion re solutions. Beating is the norm here for disciplining students and I have witnessed much resistance already in the few short days I have been here to changing that in the schools. In fact, many times the first solution to conflict that is offered are fighting or beating and the parents seem to wish that to continue. Imagine the reception Basotho men give us white ladies form Canada when we suggest dropping corporal punishment!.
In the afternoon, there is exercise, circus training and special sessions, such as HIV and AIDS education. Lots of the students play soccer. They also write letters to their sponsors. Today it rained and the Hall was full of red mud. We had a talent show tonight and they all sang and danced – so much talent. After that some of us mopped the gym, which will have to be done each night. The kids hung in there with staff and they each got a marshmallow. With three small buckets and 3 mops it took over one hour. We sang This Land is Your Land as our Canadian song and it was terrible…. but had a chance to laugh at ourselves and they had a chance to laugh at us.
Tomorrow night is the Circus Showcase, and some of the kids are going to do stilts.
As well, there are jugglers, Yo Yo-ers, Gymnasts and Plate spinners, of which I am one and have two little girls to perform with. We practiced our routine including bows and costumes and it was an amazing experience for me to work with these children, Molorane and Sebongile.
I gave two lectures on Animal Husbandry and they were well received by the teachers and nuns. Two beautiful ladies in full African dress, both school principles, sat and asked me questions in great English. I could hardly believe what I was doing and where I was. They decided I knew something and we got into discussion re cow breeds etc. The biggest laugh was when I told them dogs in Canada have beds and coats. It was even strange for me to say it…I networked (surprised?) and now have an invitation to visit
one woman and see her school and village and she says her friend will gladly take me riding in the mountains…. so now I have an amazing trip lined up.
Sometimes I have just sit and experience it from a point of view of sensations…smell, heat, sounds- I hope pictures tell the tale. I don't usually eat with the staff, but sit alone and watch the kids or talk to them. They have given me a Basotho name, Maletsatse, which means "Mother of the Sun” I asked a staff member if it might mean horses ass, but I'm good!. We leave here Thursday, but I will write more after the circus.
Friday, January 11, 2008
Leaving for Leadership Camp
We leave tomorrow for the leadership camp. There will not be access to any computers etc., so will be communicating in a week or so - will try and touch base as soon as I am able.
There will be around 230 people at the camp - started taking 3 truckloads of food up there today. I will be giving lectures on animal hubandry (among others) and have just spent time with the district vet. A very interesting women who studied and trained in Moscow.
The group works very well together trying to get child sponsors before school starts on the 21st. I am involved in the interviewing process and will also be teaching conflict resolution at the camp for 8 different age groups. I have a lovely Basotho lady as my paired person who will give the talks with me - we are finishing our preparations today. Should be a very fun and exciting time with all of the kids!!
There will be around 230 people at the camp - started taking 3 truckloads of food up there today. I will be giving lectures on animal hubandry (among others) and have just spent time with the district vet. A very interesting women who studied and trained in Moscow.
The group works very well together trying to get child sponsors before school starts on the 21st. I am involved in the interviewing process and will also be teaching conflict resolution at the camp for 8 different age groups. I have a lovely Basotho lady as my paired person who will give the talks with me - we are finishing our preparations today. Should be a very fun and exciting time with all of the kids!!
Up Country!
I arrived here on Tues. 8th /Jan. and a driver brought us up country about 100km to this town Leribe where the Help Lesotho office is. The scenery is different to anything else I have ever seen. Green rolling fields and valleys with crazy rock mountains jutting up here and there and a mountain range in the background that we will drive up into Sat. for the 5 day leadership camp with the kids. Little brick houses and roundaveles scattered randomley everywhere too. The office is a building out behind a craft center where they employ handicapped ladies weaving. Our office is 3 rooms surronded by unmown grass and grazing ponies. I was able to do a sponsorship application for two 18 year old twin sisters yesterday. Took a lot of time as they didn't speak english very well - but we will try to get them sponsors for their last year of school by the 21st of Jan. I walk 2 kms to the office from where we stay, and am looking forward to my luggage arriving today for a needed change of clothes!
Helen
Helen
Tuesday, January 8, 2008
Arrived!
Hi Everyone - I am writing for Helen who was able to quickly send an email today, to say she arrived safe and sound....... but of course without any luggage....that will be 4 in a row!!! Glad she packed extra in her carry on!
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